Change is inevitable even in Cuba, the most timeless of tropical paradises. But if you know where to look -- the spirit of Old Havana is alive and well. Havana is about holding court in a garden restaurant in Miramar, where the air is rich with spice, or salsa dancing at a timeless old hotel where boozy rum punch flows as freely as water. The warm aroma of hand-rolled tobacco and the polished leather of overstuffed smoking chairs evoke all the sublime indulgence the night has to offer.